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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end names. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.