Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
